Robin Godwin: Pho, Haitian Cuisine, Korean Rice Bowls, Burgers, Coffee, and More Coming to Cross Street Market

Caves Valley Partners (CVP), the development company tapped by Baltimore Public Markets Corporation (BPMC) to redevelope the Cross Street Market, held an event today to announce new stalls coming to the 31,800 sq. ft. market and to give a tour of the progress. CVP was joined by CANAdev, which is leasing the market’s 26 to 30 food stalls, and MacKenzie, which is leading construction and will be the property manager.

The S. Charles St. side of the block-long market remains open, but more than 60% of the market starting at the Light St. entrance has been closed for construction since April. Phase 1A, starting at the Light St. entrance, is expected to open in the Thanksgiving to Christmas timeframe.

As you walk into Light St. entrance, Annapolis-based Ceremony Coffee will have a large coffee shop off to the right. Ceremony will open up to the rest of the market, but will also have glass walls so it can close down earlier than most other stalls. Arsh Mirmiran of CVP noted that Ceremony would be the first to open and first to close each day. Ceremony roasts its own beans and sources from all over the world.

Just to the left of Ceremony is a large space similar in scale that has not yet been leased. Mirmiran said that they’d like to reserve it for one restaurant, but the team would be open to breaking it up if needed. Mirmiran has a particular food style in mind, but did not want to say more about it on the record at this time.

Just behind Ceremony Coffee, moving west in the market, will be the new homes of longtime Cross Street Market businesses Steve’s Lunch and Fenwick Meats. The two stalls will be located across the middle aisle from each other.

Steve Lunch’s has been at the Cross Street Market for more than 50 years. It was started by Steve Nichols and has been owned by son John Nichols since 1970. Steve’s Lunch briefly shut down during construction in April, but was able to open a temporary location on the S. Charles St. side of the market in May after Smoke decided to close until the market renovation was completed. Steve’s Lunch specializes in breakfast sandwiches, gravy fries, subs, the steak fish sandwich, and house-made soups.

Fenwick Meat’s closed in April for construction and has remained closed in anticipation of its new stall. Fenwick’s has been open since 1952 and under the ownership of Henry Reisinger for more than 3o years. Fenwick’s sells butcher’s cuts of meats and is recognizable by its large neon sign which will be making a return.

Phase 1B, which is expected to open around April or May of 2019, will welcome new stalls Burger Bar, Rice Crook, Sobeachy, and Phubs. The Sweet Shop, which is open in a temporary location at the S. Charles St. side of the market, will return to its original location towards the middle of the market. Smoke, which hosted a pop-up stall for about five months in the early part of this year, will also return to Cross Street Market in Phase 1B. Nunnally Bros. Choice Meats will renovate its longtime stall in Phase 1B .

Burger Bar is a new concept from Nick and Steve Karvounis, the owners of Southside Diner at Southside Marketplace. Burger Bar will sell handmade burger patties using meat from local farms and hot dogs from different regions around the world. It will also sell french fries and onion rings. The Karvounis family is returning to its roots in Baltimore markets as their father owned stalls at the Belair and Lexington Markets where they grew up working.

Rice Crook is a “light-hearted spin-off” of Bun’d Up, which has been building momentum at DC-area farmers’ markets and events. Combining family recipes with a love for bread fostered in the Pastry Program at L’Academie De Cuisine, owner Scott Chung serves up Korean and Southeast Asian flavors with a focus on rice bowls, handmade bao, and specialty salads.

Sobeachy is “proud to be Baltimore’s only Haitian restaurant.” It’s a passion project from Chanel Fluerimond who learned to cook young – and quickly picked up Haitian recipes and techniques from husband Leo Fleurimond. The food will be an eclectic blend of African and French flavors including fried party wings, quick bites like Haitian patties and stuffed plantain cups, and tropical juices.

Phubs is “a Soup-N-Sub shop with a Vietnamese spin.” Currently located in Hanover, MD, Phubs serves authentic flavors of pho and banh mi with a modern twist. Phubs offers a fast-casual way to enjoy Vietnamese street food and uses all-natural, local meats and produce.

Since 1988, The Sweet Shoppe has offered hand-scooped ice cream and a variety of chocolate and candies, including classic, old-fashioned, and seasonal treats. The specialty shop sells a large range of Baltimore-made Naron Chocolates, from malted milk balls to nut clusters. Customers can purchase pre-packaged bags or combine candies and pay by the pound.

Smoke, which has a restaurant in Cockeysville, will be bringing back its signature BBQ led by chef Josh White. Smoke’s smoked BBQ menu includes sandwiches with chuck roll beef, pork, chicken, and tofu, along with platters including ribs and wings. Sandwiches include the Boss Dawg sandwich which includes pulled pork, house-cured bacon, cheddar, cole slaw, crispy onions, jalapeño-bacon glaze, and pickles. Smoke’s stall will serve beer and liquor drinks. Smoke will also have a carryout window facing the outside of the market, called Second-Hand Smoke. Carryout will stay open late night.

Nunnally Bros. Choice Meats has served Baltimore with fresh meat for more than 125 years. It is known for a large selection of meats and is run by cousins Brett and Mark Nunnally.

Michael Morris, principal at CANAdev, said that more tenants have been signed but announcements are not yet ready as some businesses are still working on refining the concepts and developing logos. He noted that they are looking to still fill some specific spaces in the market, but that he also has a waiting list of businesses that are interested.

Cross Street Market will have a U-shaped beer bar with televisions, a craft cocktail bar, and a wine bar. Some tenants will also be able to sell alcoholic drinks at the stalls.

The market will also have more grocery-type stalls where patrons can pick up items like dairy products, produce, cheeses, charcuterie, and flowers.

Lemontopia, run by 11-year-old Jamaria Crump, had a pop-up at Cross Street Market over the summer, but returned to school this fall. She was on hand at today’s event serving her lemonades and lemon bars. Morris said they’d love to invite Crump back for pop-ups in the future.

CVP and CANAdev are currently involved in a legal dispute over the lease of Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood which occupies a large portion of the S. Charles St. entrance of Cross Street Market. Mirmiran said renovations to that side of the market will depend on how the situation plays out.

Cross Street Market will have several common indoor seating areas along with outdoor seating along Cross St. Morris said the capacity for the market should be approximately 600.

Read SouthBMore.com’s articles detailing the different aspects of the Cross Street Market redevelopment here.